Question 1

Are your tents double-walled?

Accepted Answer

Yes, all of our tents consist of an inner tent of breathable water-repellant fabric that is attached to a waterproof outer. This design decreases condensation and increases insulation. They are pitched simultaneously giving a quicker, more integrated set up with the inner always protected from the rain from the moment you take it out of the bag until it is pitched. From a safety standpoint, a double wall is advantageous because it will still protect you from the weather in the event that one of the layers becomes damaged. A double wall tent with the inner attached with shock-cords and toggles also allows more flexibility since both the inner and outer can be used separately.

Question 2

Can I fit my pack in the vestibule?

Accepted Answer

Hilleberg tents generally have larger than average vestibules. They are designed to accommodate at least the amount of gear for the number of people for which it is intended. GT - models have an extended vestibule. Keron 4 GT&#x27;s even have vestibules big enough to park two bicycles. When using the tent on longer trips in the winter or when extra gear is required, we usually recommend going up one size in the tent or opting for a GT model for extra room and comfort.

Question 3

Do I need footprints? Do the footprints cover the vestibules?

Accepted Answer

A footprint will increase the life of the floor and protect it from damage. However, it is not needed for the function of the tent. The groundsheet fabric is waterproof and puncture proof. Some people like to have footprints to keep mud off the tent or to cover the vestibule floor. Footprints help prevent dampness from the ground from condensing on the inside of the outer tent. We sell footprints that cover the entire underside of the tent including vestibules for our Red Label and Black Label tents. The footprints for our Yellow Label tents do not cover the vestibule. They clip on to the rings, where the inner tent attaches to the outer tent, with toggles. The tent may be packed with the footprint tied on. When returning from a trip make sure both pieces are fully dry before packing away.

Question 4

Do I need to seal the seams on my new tent?

Accepted Answer

You do not need to seam seal our tents as we use a stitching method that makes the seams really strong and durable. We use a flat fell-seam in all our tents and our sewing machines employ cooling jets around the needles. This means that every stitch goes through four layers of fabric and the size of the hole is minimized by preventing heat-producing friction. The end result is a very precise, very reliable seam that has remarkable durability and water resistance.

Question 5

Do your tents have a rain fly?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We call the rain fly the outer tent, which is what you see in the pictures our tents - the green, red or sand is the outer tent. One important feature that, in our opinion, distinguishes a true all-season tent is that the outer tent goes all the way to the ground around the entire perimeter of the tent. This helps keep out wind, rain, and snow. On a Hilleberg tent, the outer and inner are hooked together and pitched simultaneously, which both saves time and keeps rain from reaching the inner tent. The outer tent can be pitched separately when you need a larger shelter, and the inner can also be pitched separately in warm and dry conditions to keep the bugs away.

Question 6

I want a tent with no condensation

Accepted Answer

There is no such thing as a "condensation-proof tent." Condensation is something that can happen in any tent to varying degrees. In general, if the temperature inside the tent drops below the dew point temperature (the temperature at which air becomes saturated with water vapor), then moisture will condense on the walls. Similarly, if the humidity outside the tent is higher than inside and there is no air-movement - i.e. no wind - then there will be some condensation. Temperature plays a role, as well: you are more likely to experience condensation in cooler weather, especially in higher humidity situations. In addition to the degree of moisture in the air and the temperature, storing wet equipment in the vestibule or in the tent itself can also contribute to condensation in a tent. Condensation can also be affected by different body types, sleeping bag type, how much heat you produce and the like. This is why it sometimes might seem odd that one person has a tent with more condensation than another. Vents in the tent will help, but only if the moist air that is being vented out is being replaced by slightly drier air from outside. When the humidity outside is higher than inside the tent, then this is naturally not the case, and the air coming through the vents will actually increase the condensation. Conditions when it is very humid and a bit colder - such as in the fall or on cold summer days - are especially prone to condensation. Think of the inside of your car in the morning when it is cold, or the outside of a beer glass once the cold liquid is poured inside it. Unfortunately, some degree of condensation is part of the laws of nature. In a smaller tent, any condensation will be more apparent than in a larger tent both because of the smaller space and because the walls - and thus any condensation - will be closer to you. A larger tent has more air to circulate within it, and the walls (and any condensation) will also feel further away from you. We also make tarps and even with these, under certain circumstances, you can experience condensation underneath the tarp. This is despite the fact that tarps have excellent ventilation, something that is so often regarded as the most effective remedy against condensation. But even here, in conditions as described above, one can wake up to a ceiling of wetness that is at times incomprehensible. The bottom line is that in conditions where any moist air inside your tent - or under your tarp - is not able to be replaced by drier, warmer, air, there will be some condensation. How our double wall tents fight condensation In our tents, the outer tent material (our Kerlon fabrics) is fully waterproof and is there to keep water - rain and snow - out. These fabrics do an exceptional job at this, but they are neither breathable - a term that refers to the ability of a fabric to allow moisture vapor to pass through it - nor air permeable. Thus, any moisture vapor trapped under such a fabric will likely condense onto the inside of the outer tent, as you sometimes see in the vestibule. In fact, when we first introduced the extended "GT" vestibules on some tents in the early 80s, we encountered something that we called the "GT-syndrome." People were not used to having such large vestibules, and they would see the condensation collecting on the inside of the vestibule. Then, rain drops would hit the outer tent and knock loose droplets of condensations, so it appeared as if rain was going straight through the tent wall the vestibule. This was not the case, of course; it was merely condensation releasing from the walls. Our inner tents, meanwhile, are built from a highly water repellent, highly breathable, and air permeable fabric. This fabric keeps the condensed water out, and allows warmer, moister air to escape, reducing condensation inside the inner tent. In addition, all of our tents are constructed to hold the inner and outer tents apart at an optimal distance to further fight possible condensation. However, with the humidity in your breath and warmth of your body, or from any wet gear in the tent, or, of course, from the ambient dew point temperature, there is still a chance for some condensation to collect on the inside walls of the inner tent. Despite the inner tent material's high breathability, in some conditions the walls will be the coldest spot in the tent, and condensation will collect on the coldest spot. Another cold spot inside the tent is underneath your sleeping bag. In addition, your feet don't put out as much heat as the rest of your body, which, in combination with the sleeping bag's touching the wall of the tent, can lead to getting the bag wet. This can happen more in smaller tents, especially those with only one entrance and a slanted back-end. We always wrap our rain jackets around the bottom of our sleeping bags to protect them. For tips on how to minimize and deal with condensation visit our practical hints page.

Question 7

One of my pole sections is bent, is this normal?

Accepted Answer

Some of our tent models come with slightly pre-bent poles. These poles have a few sections that are pre-bent in order to reduce stress on the pole.

Question 8

What additional items do I need to buy for my tent?

Accepted Answer

All the tents come complete with the necessary poles, standard pegs, and guy lines with line runners included. You also get a stuffbag, pole bag, peg bag, spare pole section with repair sleeve, and instructions. Depending on the intended use, you may want to purchase additional or special use ground pegs. These you will find in the accessories - spare parts section on this website.
Some customers may also choose to buy footprints. Black and Red Label tents' footprints cover the full area of the outer tent including vestibules. Yellow Label tents' Footprints cover the inner tent area only, except for the Enan, whose Footprint covers the full area of the outer tent.
In the event that you would like to pitch the inner tent separately, you will need the separate pole holders: 2 for each pole. For example, an Akto requires two while a Nammatj requires four. Check in the tent description to find out how many your tent requires.

Question 9

What are the differences between a Nallo and a Nammatj?

Accepted Answer

While both are very good all-season tents, the Nammatj is better suited for extreme weather while the Nallo has an emphasis on lighter weight. The Nallo uses the lighter weight Kerlon fabric on the outer tent and a lighter weight groundsheet material. The quality of both these fabrics is higher than standard; they are just a lighter version of what the Nammatj uses. The Nallo has a large vent integrated into the entrance with various venting options. It also has a fabric backed mesh vent on the back of the inner tent and an option to zip open and roll up the back of the outer tent for more airflow.
The Nammatj has a more protected entrance with two large vents with guy lines on each end. The Nammatj also has a vent on the back of the inner tent with access to adjust the outer vent. The Nammatj GT adds a mesh door to the outer tent entrance which the Nallo GT does not have. The Nallo is more streamlined in appearance because it has a shorter rear pole which helps reduce weight. For longer, more demanding winter expeditions and high altitude use we usually recommend the Nammatj over the Nallo, but the Nallo is one of our most popular and award winning models and is still a very strong and weather proof all season tent.

Question 10

What color should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Customers often pick red to stand out and green or sand to blend in. With our tents you have a choice of color for every model. Because the inner tent is yellow, there is no effect on mood between choosing red, green, or sand. The colors do not make a difference on temperature in the tent or the amount of light it lets through.

Question 11

What is your warranty?

Accepted Answer

Hilleberg the Tentmaker prides itself on making products with the highest quality materials and workmanship. We offer a comprehensive warranty against material and manufacturing defects. Since laws and regulations sometimes differ, warranty coverage may vary from country to country. Read more about our warranty and repair policy.

Question 12

Why are your tents so expensive?

Accepted Answer

The materials used in a Hilleberg tent are of the highest quality, therefore they are also more expensive than many others. Our exclusive Kerlon fabric has a tear-strength up to six times that of ordinary tent fabrics, and our groundsheet material was chosen because it is the most waterproof and puncture proof fabric we have found. Read more about our materials. We have our own factory in Europe where one person makes each tent. You can even find their nametags inside the tent. We do not mass-produce anything. Each tent is assembled and checked before being sent out. Read more about how our tents are designed and built. We never compromise on quality or safety in order to achieve a lower price.

Question 13

Why don&rsquo;t you add more mesh screening to your tents?

Accepted Answer

Since all of our Black and Red Label tents can be used year-round, you need to be able to fully close the tent in severe weather. Each time we add mesh we also have to add zippers and inner tent fabric to cover the mesh when needed. Otherwise, driving snow or rain can pack on to the mesh and melt through. Adding the necessary zippers will increase the weight. This question illustrates the difficult balance between features and weight and deciding which is most necessary.

Question 14

Why is my outer tent sticking to my inner tent?

Accepted Answer

Static electricity in your new Hilleberg tent may cause the inner and outer tents to stick together. This does not affect performance in any way, and the static will go away when you use the tent the first time. Alternatively, wiping the outside of the inner tent with a damp rag will also eliminate the static.

Question 15

Are your stated weights really what they say they are?

Accepted Answer

We do our best to be as accurate as possible when it comes to weight. Sometimes there can be slight differences. This is due to the nominal variations in weight that we get on the fabric. Not reflecting on the quality of the material, there can be small weight variations due to the coating. In order to give the closest possible weights for each model we take the average weight of ten tents.

Question 16

The height listed for the inner tent of the Nallo 2 is 40 in, isn&rsquo;t that a bit low?

Accepted Answer

The inner height of 40&rdquo; is tall enough for most people to sit up. A tunnel design makes the most out of the height and volume available since you can use nearly all of that height. Many dome or geodesic tents only have a corner or peak as the stated highest point but the actual &ldquo;useable&rdquo; height is often lower.

Question 17

What are the dimensions of your tents when they are packed?

Accepted Answer

We pack all our tents in generously cut stuff bags. This allows you to more easily pack your tent when it is cold, wet and windy in the mountains. As a result, the packed size is somewhat bigger than it would be with a more tailored stuff bag. All stuff bags, excluding those for our largest group tents, are approximately 50 cm (19 in) long and have plenty of room for your tent as well as the poles and pegs in their stuff begs. The length of our pole sections is 45 cm (17 in), except for our 17 mm poles, which have 51 cm (20 in) long sections. The following dimensions are approximate sizes only:

Akto, Enan	17 in long x 5 in diameter
Soulo	17 in long x 6.5 in diameter
Anjan 2	18 in long x 5 in diameter
Unna, Anjan 2 GT, Niak	18 in long x 5.5 in diameter
Rogen	18 in long x 6 in diameter
Anjan 3	19 in long x 5.5 in diameter
Anjan 3 GT	19 in long x 6 in diameter
Nallo 2	19 in long x 6.5 in diameter
Nallo 2 GT, Nallo 3	19 in long x 7 in diameter
Nammatj 2, Kaitum 2	20 in long x 6.5 in diameter
Nammatj 2 GT, Nammatj 3, Kaitum 2 GT, Kaitum 3, Nallo 3 GT, Nallo 4, Allak 2	20 in long x 7 in diameter
Nallo 4 GT	20 in long x 7.5 in diameter
Nammatj 3 GT, Tarra	20 in long x 8 in diameter
Saitaris	20 in long x 9.5 in diameter
Jannu, Staika	21 in long x 7 in diameter
Keron 3, Allak 3, Kaitum 3 GT, Kaitum 4	21 in long x 7.5 in diameter
Keron 3 GT, Saivo, Kaitum 4 GT	21 in long x 8 in diameter
Keron 4	21 in long x 8.5 in diameter
Keron 4 GT	21 in long x 9 in diameter

These stuff bags can, of course, be compressed, but we do not make and sell - nor do we recommend - true compression bags. Such bags overly compress the tent, which can damage the fabric and/or the zippers. For easier packing into your backpack, we recommend that you pack the tent only into its stuff bag, which yields a very malleable, easy to stow package. Then pack the pegs in their stuff sack along with the poles in the pole bag, and slide the resulting 45 cm/17 in long package down the interior side of your pack.

Question 18

What&#x27;s the story with Kerlon 600? Why did it go away?

Accepted Answer

We originally developed Kerlon 600 as a very lightweight outer fabric for our smaller tents in our three-season Yellow Label line of tents. We were very happy with the result, and put it into production in our Enan tent.
In 2015, In order to be more environmentally conscientious and to stay consistent with new REACH regulations, we had to slightly alter the formula of the coating in all of our Kerlon fabrics. This change affected our Kerlon 600 fabric substantially, to the point that it became too hard to work with. As a result, we discontinued its use, and, from 2016, replaced it with Kerlon 1000 in the Enan model.
Any tent made with Kerlon 600 has fabric that was produced before the change, and so is not in any way affected. The Kerlon 600 is an excellent fabric, with a very light weight and an excellent 6 kg tear strength.

Question 19

Why did your hydrostatic head figures change so much in 2017?

Accepted Answer

In 2017, we changed how we report our hydrostatic head figures so that they are more in line with common practice in the industry. Prior to that, we had used a much more conservative testing protocol. The new figures will make it easier for customers to compare different manufacturer&#x27;s materials throughout the industry.
In the 1980s, the ripstop construction in nylon fabrics was the limiting factor for hydrostatic head measurements: water could more easily pass through the ripstop cross thread area than it could in the rest of the fabric, and it was difficult to get fabrics to have a very high hydrostatic head number even if the waterproofness was much higher between the ripstop threads. We specified to our fabric supplier that our fabrics have a minimum 3000 mm hydrostatic head value, measured with the industry standard ISO 811 test. This provided fully dependable waterproofness, and was achievable with fabrics of the time. Concurrently, we also had (and still have) testing protocols for durability, where the fabric is mechanically rubbed for a set time. This helps us see how the fabric&#x27;s coating performs.
Because we are innately conservative and quality-focused, we combined the two protocols - the rubbing procedure and the ISO 811 hydrostatic head test - and specified that our fabric supplier deliver fabrics with a a minimum of 3000 mm after the rubbing procedure.
Over time, as weaving and coating technology improved, the "as received" hydrostatic head numbers became much higher, so today (2017) it makes more sense to report the "as received" numbers. This is also how the majority of manufacturers in the outdoor industry report their figures, so now customers can better compare fabrics from various manufacturers.

Question 20

How do I attach a line runner?

Accepted Answer

1 & 2. Pull the guy line through the hole located in the bottom of the triangularly-shaped Line Runner.

3. Pull the line through the attachment point.

4. Put the end of the guy line through the other hole on the top of the Line Runner as shown.

5. Tie the end of the guy line as shown on the right. We recommend you use an overhand knot.

6. Your Line Runner is now attached and ready to use.

Question 21

How do I attach the Footprint?

Accepted Answer

The best time to attach your Footprint to your tent is before you go outdoors. Indoors, lay your tent out with floor side up. Lay the Footprint on top of the tent floor, with the logo side towards the floor, and align the Footprint's logo as follows:

If the Footprint covers the vestibule, then the logo or logos on the Footprint should align to the middle of the main outer tent door or doors.
Note that on the Kaitum GT and Nallo GT, the main door is the large entrance, not the small entrance near the front of the extended vestibule.
If the Footprint does not cover the vestibule, then the logo on the Footprint should align with the logo on the inner tent door
An exception to this is the Rogen, because of its asymmetrical design. The logo on the Rogen Footprint should align with the matching small logo that is on one end of the Rogen outer tent.

For details on your tent model, look at the back of the Footprint's hang tag. Once the Footprint is aligned correctly, attach the toggles that are on the perimeter of the Footprint, to the rings at the bottom edge of the outer tent. With the tent set up, the shiny side and logo should face up. You can leave the Footprint attached when you pack your tent away after a trip. Just make sure that the entire tent and the Footprint are completely dry before you put it away.

Question 22

How do I pitch a Hilleberg tunnel tent?

Accepted Answer

Start by assembling the poles, make sure the sections seat together completely.
Lay the tent out, start at the side and insert a pole into the pole sleeve just above the pole tensioner and slide all the way to the end.
Then insert the pole end that is closest to you into the pole tensioner cup and pull the webbing until the edge of the tent meets the holder.
Repeat above process with other pole sections.
Stake down the rear corners, (on a tent like the Keron, with two identical entrances, either end can be staked first) grab the front corners and pull the tent out tightly, then peg them down.
The adjustable peg attachments should be loosened so that they are at their longest possible length when initially pegging the tent down. Then you can tighten them to achieve additional tension.
We always reccomend that you guy out your tent. This is especially important if you are expecting any wind or if the weather is bad.

Your tent is designed to be pitched with the inner and outer hooked together, so you don't need to take them apart unless to pitch one separately. For more detailed directions specific to your tent please visit the pitching instructions page to see videos of each tent being pitched and to download a PDF of the instruction book that came with your tent.

Question 23

How do I pitch the inner tent separately?

Accepted Answer

Start by removing the inner tent by unhooking the toggles.
Lay out the inner tent. Attach the pole holders, purchased separately, to the toggles at the sides.
From here you slide a pole across the tent through the elastic shock cords and insert the ends into the pole holders. Repeat process with other pole(s) on a tunnel tent.
Tie a guy line on to both the front and back of the inner tent at the top of each pole and peg these out to erect the tent.
The Akto, Allak, Soulo, Staika, and Tarra require separate pole holder kits that have the extra webbing to attach the pole holders to these tents.
Please look to the tent descriptions to see how many pole holders your tent model requires.

More detailed directions specific to your tent can be found in the instruction book that came with it. You can download PDFs of these instruction books from the pitching instructions page.

Question 24

How do I replace the shock cord in my pole?

Accepted Answer

Click here to download these instructions as a PDF.

1. Cut a new length of shock cord that is 70% the length of your pole. We recommend heating the ends of the cord to seal them so that the cord won't fray inside your pole.

2. Lay out the pole and pull one of the pole's end-stops out until the knot in the shock cord is exposed. You can use pliers if needed to pull out the end-stop. Untie or cut the knot to release the end-stop.

- Pull the end-stop out of the other end of the pole and pull the old shock cord completely out. Untie or cut off the end-stop.

3. Tie an end-stop onto one end of the new shock cord and thread it through one of the pole's end sections. Make sure the end-stop is fully seated.

4. Thread as many sections onto the shock cord as possible while still leaving some shock cord exposed. Make sure the sections are fully seated into each other.

5. Pull the shock cord tight and tie a peg or similar object onto the shock cord with an easy-to-release knot to keep the shock cord from sliding back into the sections.

6. Thread the rest of the sections onto the shock cord, seating them as you go. If you cannot fit all the sections on, pull the shock cord tight so you have more to work with then slide the remaining sections on and seat them.

7. Pull the end of the shock cord out enough to tie the end-stop on. Gently fit the end-stop back in the pole and remove the peg.

Question 25

How do I roll my outer tent door?

Accepted Answer

While you can just bundle up the door fabric and secure it with the toggle, we recommend rolling the door in a very specific way because it works better to keep it out of your way, it is more secure, and it prevents the door and zipper from dragging in the dirt, which will increase the longevity of your tent.
To roll the door, start by rolling the door fabric towards the toggle. As you go, fold the loose end of the roll in and gather the fabric toward the toggle. The goal is to get the main part of the door, including the end of the zipper, under the toggle. This prevents the end of the door from unrolling or getting loose. When the door is fully rolled, put the elastic loop around it and onto the toggle.

Question 26

How do I use a line runner?

Accepted Answer

1. To loosen the Line Runner, use your fingers to pull the line from the Line Runner body, as shown.

2. Pull the line to lock it into the Line Runner's channel.

Question 27

How tight should the door band be on my tent?

Accepted Answer

The purpose of the door band is to keep the door of your tent at the correct size to allow the zippers to operate smoothly. In order to do this the door band must be tight enough that there is no tension across the zippers. However, the door band should not be over tightened to the point that the door hangs loosely when it is closed.

Question 28

How tight should the ground straps be on my tunnel tent?

Accepted Answer

The ground straps in our tunnel tents help keep the poles at the proper height and tension. When they are adjusted correctly there should not be tension on the connectors between the inner and outer tent from the poles. If the ground strap is too tight, the poles will be under unnecessary stress and the inner tent will sag inwards at the sides.

Question 29

My pole broke, what do I do?

Accepted Answer

Included in your pole bag is one spare pole section and one repair sleeve. The repair sleeve can be used to temporarily repair your pole until you have the opportunity to replace the damaged pole section. Click here to download a PDF of instructions on how to repair a tent pole. Using a repair sleeve

1 & 2. Slide the sleeve over the damaged pole and center it over the damaged spot, and tape the ends of the sleeve to keep it in place.

Replacing a pole section

1. Pull the pole's end-stop out until the knot in the shock cord is exposed. You can use pliers if needed.

2. Hold on to the cord so it does not get pulled back through the entire pole (Tying the shock cord around a peg can prevent this from happening). Untie the knot and pull the end-stop off the cord.

3. Pull the pole apart to expose the shock cord behind the damaged section. Tie a peg into the cord here to keep it from being pulled back through the pole.

4. Slide the damaged section and all those ahead of it off the cord. Keep track of the order so you can replace them correctly.

5. Replace the damaged section with a new one and thread the remaining sections back onto the shock cord in the order you took them off.

6. Tie the end-stop back onto the shock cord. Gently fit the end-stop back in the pole.

Question 30

My tent has seen a lot of heavy use, how can I re-treat the fabrics?

Accepted Answer

Our fabrics are very strong and both waterproof and highly water-repellent. However, sun, wind, rain and wear will weaken any fabric over time. Re-treating the fabric will improve both protection against UV damage and water repellency, but will not help with tear strength. Re-treating your outer tent For re-treating our outer tent fabrics, we recommend Nikwax Tent & Gear SolarProof, which is easy to use and does not contain fluorocarbons. Set up your tent and wash it with a sponge and lukewarm water. Spray or brush the Tent & Gear SolarProof on the fabric and wipe off any excess liquid. Once the tent has dried it is ready for use. Please note that Tent & Gear SolarProof should not be used on a new tent, but only on one that has lost its water repellent ability. Note also that we always recommend that you protect your tent from harmful UV rays by avoiding pitching it in direct sunlight and/or by using a tarp as sun protection. Re-treating your inner tent If the water repellency of your inner tent has diminished over a long period of use, you can use Nikwax TX.Direct© Spray-On, which works well on fabrics - like those in our inner tents - that need to have both air permeability and water repellency. As with Tent & Gear SolarProof , spray on the TX.Direct, wipe off any excess liquid, then let it dry. If you would like more information about these products and to find out where you can purchase them, please visit www.nikwax.com.

Question 31

My tent is dirty. How do I clean it?

Accepted Answer

After a trip, it is a good idea to set your tent up and then clean it with a sponge and lukewarm water. We do not recommend using any cleaning products. It is also very important to take a small brush and really brush the zippers, so that there is no sand or grit left in the teeth. Sand in the zippers can wear down the sliders and prevent them from working properly again. Check and make sure that your poles and pegs are clean and don&#x27;t have any damage.
If the tent is very dirty and dusty, we usually put it in a big tub of water and let it soak there for a while - an hour or so - periodically moving it around in the tub. This usually helps to take care of more dust and dirt.
No matter how you clean it, make sure the tent is completely dry before packing it away. Ideally hang it up inside with the poles in it, but if there is no space for that, just make sure that it hangs long enough so that it Is completely dry between the layers.

Question 32

My tent is paler after a lot of time in the sun, what happened?

Accepted Answer

Our fabrics are very strong and both waterproof and highly water-repellent. However, sun, wind, rain and wear will weaken any fabric over time. A faded or bleached look to the fabric is a sign that the fabric has started to become UV damaged. Just as UV rays from direct sunlight have adverse effects on our skin, the same is true for all materials, including, unfortunately, tent fabrics. Exposure to the sun&#x27;s rays, especially at altitude and in the southern hemisphere, can weaken a fabric&#x27;s performance over time.
Perhaps the biggest effect is on tear strength. Extended exposure to UV diminishes any fabric&#x27;s tear strength, and this is one of the main reasons we use such high tear strength fabrics.
Another effect of extended UV exposure is diminished water repellency, so that water no longer runs off the fabric as it did when it was new. This does not, however, indicate a reduction in how waterproof the fabric is. Retreating the fabric will improve both protection against UV damage and water repellency, but will not help with tear strength.
The best way to deal with UV damage is to minimize it as much as possible. This can be done by pitching your tent in the shade, putting a tarp over it, and not leaving it set up during the day when you don&#x27;t need it. This is especially important is high UV environments such as high altitude, glaciers, and deserts.

Question 33

My tunnel tent is noisy in strong winds, what can I do?

Accepted Answer

Make sure the tent is pitched properly and is fully taught. The adjustable pole holders should be tightened so the outer tent meets the bottom of the pole holder. All guy lines should be drawn to their full length and pegged down. The guy lines attached to the vents should also be secured. In winter conditions, you may have the advantage of being able to dig down into the snow a bit before you pitch your tent. Never dig the tent down further than half its own height. Be weary that wind will bring more snow with it and can block entrances.

Question 34

My zipper doesn&#x27;t work, how do I fix it?

Accepted Answer

Often the first sign of trouble with a zipper is that the zipper does not stay closed when you try to zip it closed. What normally causes this is dirt and grit in the zipper wearing small groves on the inside of the zipper slider. As a temporary fix, you can squeeze the sides of the zipper slider together until you have time to replace it. It is important to regularly clean your zippers to prevent this from happening. Click here to download a PDF of instructions on how to replace your zipper sliders.

1. To replace the zipper sliders, open up the stitches at one end of the zipper and remove the little metal clip.

2. Slide off the old sliders. Make sure to note what direction they are facing, and which side of the slider faces up.

3. Slide on the new sliders, ensuring that they are facing the same directions as the old ones.

4. Make sure you have the sliders oriented correctly not only front and back, but also top and bottom.

5. Putting the slider on with the flat end first can sometimes be tricky. When doing this, make sure you start with the zipper teeth zipped together.

6. Once you have the slider started on the zipper, work it on further by pulling on either side of the zipper.

7, 8. Once the sliders are on and working, reattach the stitches you undid, and make a few stitches to close the end and to keep the sliders from coming off. If possible, reset the metal clip.

Question 35

When using a footprint, which side goes up?

Accepted Answer

The shiny side, with the logo, goes up with the matte finish toward the ground.

Question 36

Why do the footprints on the Anjan, Rogen, and Niak tents not cover the vestibule?

Accepted Answer

On the Anjan, Rogen, and Niak tents, the optional Footprints do not cover the vestibules since the outer tents do not reach all the way to the ground. Because of the gap between the outer tent wall and the ground in the vestibule, water can get into that area during heavy rain. If the Footprint covered the vestibule area, that water could run underneath the tent.

Question 37

With the tent pitched can the inner tent be partially unhooked?

Accepted Answer

Yes, the inner tent can be unhooked fully or partially and pulled to the side to make even more vestibule room.

Frequently Asked Questions

General Questions